Hello Design Land readers,

Fall 2021 Couture Week is here and we cannot wait to show you our favorite looks. This Couture Season, like every previous one, tends to push the limits in creativity, demonstrate raw ideas come to life in conceptual designs and experiments with specific showcasing techniques.

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli Maison has experienced a rebirth since Daniel Roseberry took the position as artistic director two years ago, constructing a clear vision that forever pays homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy and conceptual artistry. The House’s Fall 2021 Couture collection includes surrealist recreations of golden flowers, a handcrafted jewelry bustier, embroidered vintage denim jeans, golden dove and ear pieces, padlock-shaped earrings, trompe l’œil lungs adorned with rhinestones and golden crafted facial features incorporated in solid jewelry. Schiaparelli Maison is synonymous with Couture, and each season Roseberry comes forward with another stunning collection that pushes limits of refined creativity.

Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen Fall Couture collection “Earthrise” is an ode to freedom. The concept of this season’s lineup is inspired by the launch of Apollo 8, the first spacecraft to witness the Earthrise from Moon’s horizon.

Three of the collection’s looks are a collaboration with the artist Rogan Brown, whose inspiration takes roots in the tradition of scientific illustration. Among the intricate dresses, Magnetosphere, Eclipse, Empyrean, Sphaera are only some of our favorites. Magnetosphere is created with Parley Ocean Plastic®️, sourced from upcycled marine debris in collaboration with Parley for the Oceans Parley.tv. The Eclipse dress and Sphaera dress are made out of hand-cut white spheres, varying in texture and lined up in color gradient, creating a layered illusion. The Empyrean gown is made of layers of relief sculptures that mimic the fabrics’ transition into plant, designed utilizing Parley Ocean Plastic®️ fabric.

Van Herpen collaborated with Domitille Kiger, the French female world-champion skydiver to showcase a new meaning of earthly freedom. For the first time, the experimental and intricate nature of Haute couture meets the extreme sport of skydiving, a push to test strengths in craftsmanship.

EMPYREAN, MAGNETOSPHERE, ECLIPSE, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN

EARTHGAZE, BLUE MARBLE AND SPHAERA MUNDI DRESSES, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN

AEROLOGY JUMPSUIT AND DRESS, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN

MYTHOSPHERE, SPHAERA DRESSES, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN

Armani Privé

“Shine” is the title of this season’s Couture collection, a direct reference to the much needed brightness.

As Giorgio Armani states:

“We have lived through very dark times, and now it seems like we can see some light. My collection is light, yet touching, because its inception comes from a feeling of rebirth.”

The collection’s most striking features are the brilliance of fabrics that appear mercurial and liquid, the multi-layered silk organza, satins and silks interwoven with ultra fine metallic thread. It is overall an energizing lineup, with a multitude of positive colors and embracing a joyful reality.

Ronald van der Kemp

The Mind Vaccine is RVDK Fall 2021 Couture collection. The lineup includes a handwoven backless metal chain vest, a mega bell bottom from upcycled denim leftovers, a gold umbrella covered with silk mesh and vintage lace snake detailing, an umbrella peplum jacket with mini-maxi skirt, a hand-painted silk velvet art gown with raised shoulder, and many more. Since last season’s molded eco felt corset, RDVK is constantly looking for creative ways to find circular solutions and upcycle fashion discards.

Balenciaga

For the first time in the 53 years since Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his Couture House, Demna Gvasalia presented his first Balenciaga Couture collection. In this lineup, Gvasalia honored Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy, adding his streetwear influence and attitude to a well-tailored collection.

In Demna Gvasalia’s words regarding the revival of the couture house:

“Fifty-three years have passed since Cristóbal Balenciaga closed the doors of his house, largely due to the birth of ready-to-wear, which questioned the raison d'être for the concept of haute couture.
Over half a century later I see it as my creative obligation to the unique heritage of m. Balenciaga to bring the couture back to his house. It is the very foundation of this century-old maison.
Couture is the highest level of garment construction, that is not only relevant in today’s mass-productive industry, but even absolutely necessary for the survival and further evolution of modern fashion.
I invite you to discover and enoy this tribute to the legecay of Cristobal Balenciaga and my very personal vision of the essence of fashion”.

Azzaro

“Olivier Theyskens evokes the dream in an ode to the evening and incants the real to sublimate it further.”

In a sparkling collection of encrusted gowns, fluid lines, and structured looks, Azzaro creates a balance of opposites, brings both shadow and light, fluidity and structure, the excessive and moderation.

Fendi

“A poetic transfiguration of the past within the present day”

Marking Kim Jones’ second couture show, Fendi Fall 2021 Couture collection brings numerous aspects of Rome together, starting with the architectural influence, to the cobblestoned pavements, marble ornaments and multicolored mosaics. Each outfit is an intricate labor with a singular focus, all finalized with mother-of-pearl embellishment, fur mosaic work and sculptural statement accessories.

As stated by Fendi’s official IG page, this collection is “celebrating the eternal beauty of Rome. A contemporary connection between eras, cultures and aesthetics.”

Chanel

This Season’s Chanel Couture show took place in the Palais Galliera, City of Paris Fashion Museum and was inspired by movements of French Painting. The lineup included tailored blazers, waiscoats and tweed jackets, a round-shouldered skirt suit in black tweed, a blouse with trompe-l’oeil ribbon motif embellishment, a draped satin dress with black bows, a multi-coloured Lesage tweed jacket and trapeze skirt framed with embroidery, and a V-waist ball skirt in silk Mikado. Many of the looks take direct inspiration from Impressionist paintings and the method of Pointillism.

Giambattista Valli

“An evasive nocturnal walk, with a slight taste for danger in search of the pleasure of reliving these emotions. A sense of unknown pervades one’s walk in the Ville Lumière.
Pieces of present, past and future memories emerge. Its glares, its glamour made up of nights filled with lights reflected on wet asphalt, its promiscuity, its eclectic and voyeuristic aesthetic à la Ryan Murphy.”

Giambattista Valli Fall 2021 Couture Show focuses on a sense of joie de vivre, making for a joyful occasion with signature tulle cloud dresses, chiffon gowns, sequined column dresses and tailored trouser suits. The collection manifests a certain freedom of movement and living in the moment.

Which Fall 2021 Couture collection is your favorite? We love each and every one of them for their expressiveness and overindulgence.

XOXO Lori / Design Land NYC

Our FASHION and CULTURE impressions shared with you!